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Tuesday, February 15, 2005

I am just thinking about my work. I thought I would share some of it with you.

Currently in Sri Lanka, especially in the tsunami affected areas, there are land, rebuilding and livelihood issues to deal with. There is a lot of work to do. Many of the people from the International NGOs that are doing the work don't usually work in conflict zones or conflict sensitivity isn't part of their mandate. They have no idea that when they chose to build ten houses, what ethnic group they choose to build for first, could spark off a tension. To be honest, they don't care. They see their job as being so overwhelming by just focusing on government regulations and civil engineering, that they don't have time or the capacity to deal with that. It is a fair comment, but someone needs to do it. Sri Lanka is a country that has been at war for over 20 years. Currently, there is a ceasefire, but the amount of money and assistance that is coming into the country is all the impetus that is needed for fighting to return.

That is part of my organisation does. We work with business leaders in the communities so that they can educate their local government on what damage has been and give them ideas on how to rebuild the local economy. We work with International NGOs to educate them on the conflict dynamics and how to appropriately select houses, bridges and ports to re-build. We work with political leaders at the policy levels so they will create policies and initiatives that don't just benefit victims of the tsunami, but also the people that relied on their business and buying power.

Monday, February 14, 2005

batticaloa and ampara 

This past weekend, we went to the East Coast of Sri Lanka to meet with the chambers of commerce in the area and the Muslim traders.Well, we went to the devastated areas of Batticaloa and Ampara.

The damage was tremendous. There are miles and miles of rubbles and garbage, but then strangely, there are places where there is nothing. No trees, grass, rubble, nothing. It looks like the earth has been shaved in spots. You cannot imagine there was a village there.

A lot of the relief has been done. There are water stations set up everywhere. Clean water tanks filtered by solar power with UNICEF or World Vision slapped on the side of the tank. Faucets labelled washing water, so the distinction is clear. They seemed to be sensitively placed on the border of Tamil and Muslim areas or next to mosques.

There are camps everywhere. Tents among the rubble and tents onto their own with outhouses and port-a-johns. Again with UNHCR or "Gift from the people of Saudi Arabia" painted on the side. Now, they are in the reconstruction phase. Clearing rubble and rubbish. People homes will be assessed by civil engineering organisations as to whether the house that remains can be salvaged or if it is structurally unsound and needs to be bulldozed. There are so many issues and so much work to be done. What houses will be rebuilt, how many, by whom and in what ethnical order?

But the sheer devastation is endless. All down the coast. Our driver kept stopping and taking us to small roads up and down the coast. Many of the roads have been washed away and he had to use the four-wheel drive to keep us from getting stuck in the sand.

At one point, four men stop us and ask us if we want to buy a tsunami video. It is video shot during the tsunami from people's personal video. He assures us it for a good cause. All the money is going to a local church. We politely tell him no.

When we do get out to have a better look or take photos, adults look the other way. Children run up to us and say in English, "Hello, nice to meet you. What is your name? What country are you from?" It is obvious they have learned this from the aid workers. They are thrilled when we responded. We ask if we can take their pictures and they say, "thank you, thank you".

After 4 hours of it, my boss and I told him we had seen enough. I felt guilty. I was fatigued after four hours. Could you imagine the people that live in it or the relief workers that sifted through it for weeks? I met a man who told me that his business was gone, his house destroyed and his wife was killed. She was four months pregnant with their first child. He said, "I had a very good life". I didn't know what to say to him. I just had no idea what to say to him because he had lost so much.

Friday, February 11, 2005

tomorrow 

Tomorrow we will get up early and head to Batticaloa and Ampara to meet with the Chambers of Commerce and the Muslim Traders Associations.

I am looking forward to it.

Thursday, February 10, 2005

eating 

Eating is done with the right hand. No utensils unless you are eating in a very western place. And eating should only be done with the right hand. Left hand is the dirty hand.

Washing the right hand before the meal is essential.

Monday, February 07, 2005

a strange night at the beach shack 

I got up at 5:30 am to watch the Super Bowl which I think should have been more appropriately titled the Snore Bowl. It was the dullest game and the half time show - I won't even go there. Is there a rating below G?

Last night, was a bit weird. My co-worker, his girlfriend and I went out to dinner at a Beach Hut. It is a typical South Indian/Sri Lankan thing. They come over with a tray of seafood and offer it to you. You say yes and then they cook it up in various ways. Grilling the prawn, deviling the crabs, etc. It was gorgeous, but expensive. It cost $25.

The weird thing is that my co-worker invited two of his long time friends that work in Sri Lanka. One is half-french Canadian and half-LA, it makes a curious combo. He was very nice and full of stories. I liked him a great deal. He also invited his friend, Laurel. She was terrible. You would try to add to the conversation and she would ignore that you just said something. Ignore it. You didn't say anything. She didn't just do this a couple of times. She did it all night.

Anyway, the three friends all sat at one end of the table. They started talking about the political situation and development work. His girlfriend and I tried to jump in, but we were ignored and shut out of the conversation. I kept trying because: a) it was interesting b) it applies to my work c) I didn't want to be rude.

His girlfriend just gave up and tried to just have conversations with me. So, the table divided. We had our own talk and they had theirs. Towards the end of the night, everyone was drunk and we were chatting about relationships and whether you saw yourself with kids. At some point, my co-worker made an effort to jump in. It was terrible. I made a joke about my husband being old and me being old. His girlfriend said that he was old and she was going to dump him for a young man. That did not go over well and I could feel the tension. My co-worker is 7 years older than her and it is a bigger issue for her than it is for him. Ahh, I am so glad that I am past that. (I hope anyway)

Sunday, February 06, 2005

rafting on the river kwai 

I got up early for the rafting trip. It was supposed to take place at 6:30 am. We met in the lobby and our guide arrived. He was young and enthusiastic, showing a great deal of energy for a Sunday morning.

It was significantly colder in the morning. I would even say a little chilly. I suddenly had a fear that it would be very cold in the water. The ocean is supposed to retain its heat; I hope that this river would be the same.

We piled in to a three-wheeler, five of us including the driver, and headed up the hill to where the start of the trip would be. Shortly before arriving at the destination, we arrived at a large wooden structure. It resembled an open-air disco. There was a bar and bench seating around the edges, but where the dance floor would be there was a couple of large inflatable rafts.

We jumped out and the guide placed for four paddles along the floor of the three-wheeler. He then placed four helmets and life jackets in the back of the three-wheeler. Then the driver and the guide grabbed a raft and placed it on the roof of the three-wheeler and told us to get back into the vehicle. So, up we headed again, the five of us with four paddles, additional gear and a massive raft on the roof. The guide hung out the left side with his arm on the raft. My co-worker hung out the right side with his arm holding the raft. I wished I had a camera to record the event as we putt-putted up the hill.

We eventually reached the start and we unloaded. There was some basic instruction and off we headed. The water was a great deal warmer than I had expected and I was really thankful.

It was lovely. The air felt crisp and it was slightly warming up. There wasn’t anyone else around. It felt like we were the only people awake. If it hadn’t been for all the birds, we would have felt entirely alone.

The river was very unchallenging which was nice. It made the activity relaxed and enjoyable. There were some rapids and a couple where we tried to paddle upstream as well. The guide was wonderful. As time went on, people began to slowly emerge; a person eating their breakfast on the bank or someone floating by on a small boat.

At one point, the river dipped sharply and the walls on either side of the hills raised up dramatically and trapped in that area was dense fog. It was beautiful. It was so picturesque against the lush green trees. The guide told us this is where the movie was shot and you can picture it.

We headed further along and you could see what looked like rock jutting out of either side of the bank. The guide explained that it was concrete left from the movie set. As you got very close you could see in fact it was painted concrete.

We went over one more rapid and the guide announced, “Come! Good time fun now!” I was instantly intrigued. My co-worker and I followed the guide’s lead and jumped into the river. His girlfriend decided that wasn’t for her and remained in the boat. The guide pleaded but she remained adamant.

We discovered the good fun time was to ride over the last rapid – outside of the boat. The water pushed and pulled me under twice when I re-emerged I was exhilarated. We then just floated down the river until we reached the end. It was nice just floating along. The river was strong enough that there was no effort on my part. It was great – definitely good fun time.

At the end, we thanked the guide and headed up to shower and change. We returned to the dining room for a well earned breakfast. By the time we got there, the river had become very busy. People had returned for washing. We noticed there was a ferry that shuttled people back and forth across the river. I remember the guide had said that 2500 families lived on the other side. It was made out of wood and was long and narrow and resembled a canoe. The unusual thing about the ferry was that people stood single file in it. Due to how narrow it was, it really only allowed for it.

After breakfast, we packed and left. By the time we settled the bill and got the driver, it had really increased in temperature and I thought about the heat that was waiting for us in Colombo. It was a great trip. I am really pleased we did it.

white water rafting 

This weekend, my co-worker, his girlfriend and I went white water rafting. We decided to get out of the city of Colombo. So, we went to a place in the hills about 2.5 hours drive east of Colombo. It happened to be the place where they filmed 'Bridge on the River Kwai'. As we drove up the hills, we passed many shops. Many of the shops had signs in Singhala, Tamil and English. Some of the businesses used signs with photos of famous celebrities to advertise their shops. For example, there was a hair salon entitled "Style on the Move" with a photo of Tom Cruise from Mission Impossible. Similarly, a poster of Christina Aguilera advertised tyres. I am sure that these are unendorsed uses of their images.

In the van, the air conditioning didn't work in the front and barely worked in the back. Everyone once in a while you would get a welcome cool breeze. We rocked side to side as we sped up the hills. Any time a vehicle was going to pass, it sounded its horn. Our van would make the long drawn out "meeeeeep!" as it passed three wheelers and buses filled with Sri Lankans.

On the radio played, "Let's Stay Together" and I tried to take photos of the scenery. As we left the towns, the forest became dense and along the sides of the road small stalls sprang up. Some of them sold fruit: bananas and pineapples. I was tempted to ask the driver to stop. Occasionally, there was a larger stall selling bicycle wheels, handbags and large plastic pink baby dolls in clear plastic bags - almost real baby size. Every now and then, you would pass a stall with 20 -25 plastic dolls swinging in the breeze. It was an unnerving sight.

When we arrived, my co-worker approached the check in desk because he had made the reservation. He explained that I was his sister and his girlfriend was his wife. We smiled at each other, noting that we had been upgraded. Obviously, it was easier to use that explanation as to why he was travelling with us.

We were starving by that point. We re-arranged the rafting to take place at 6:30 am the next morning and decided to have a late lunch. The reason for the 6:30 time was that the next day was a Sunday and the dam was closed at 8:00 allowing for dam employees to have the day off. Since we were in the dry season, there would not have been enough water for us to raft with it closed.

They placed us at a table overlooking the river. It was beautiful. I noted my surroundings for the first time. The hotel resembled an old colonial but it was difficult to tell when it was built. The gardens were immaculately maintained. The river below looked inviting. It was swift moving, but looked very shallow in spots. There were several large rocks and people were sitting on them. Men were mostly on the rocks and women were standing closer to the bank.

Men wore swimming trucks and women wore sarongs. Everyone was bathing. Women had their hair down. It trailed down their backs and floated lightly on the surface of the water. They joked with each other and splashed buckets of water over their heads.

Then men vigorously washed with bars of soap covering their entire bodies, including face and head, with white suds before dunking themselves in the water. Some of the men were sitting on the rocks and casually observing the scene. One particular group had a couple of small drums that resembled bongos. They played continuously. The sound was not complicated but rhythmic and comprised the soundtrack for the activities.

After eating, my friends retired for a nap. I was afraid to sleep because it would upset my schedule so I decided to stay awake. The room was beige. When I say beige, I mean beige. The walls were painted beige and the floor tiles were the same. The curtains and the mosquito nets that hung from the ceilings had yellowed over the years to resemble a similar colour. The room smelled of cigarettes and male urine. Once I opened the windows and put the fan on, the smell faded.

Attached to the back of the room was a small patio with two chairs and a table. I sat down and began writing my thoughts from the trip up and my impressions of Sri Lanka in general. I realised I should be active on the work front and then immediately wrote a To-Do list for my return to Colombo.

After a while, I heard some stirrings next door and I peeked around the corner to their patio. I saw my co-worker reading his paper not on the patio but close to the main building and the room door was open with his girlfriend inside. I poked my head in and saw that she was crying. She told me that she felt ill and I immediately retreated to my patio. She joined me and told me that she was feeling homesick. The reality of returning to Sri Lanka had just hit her. We had a big discussion about living outside of your home culture and how it is especially hard when you return because you are reminded of the people and events you miss while you choose to live away. It was a nice talk and I think we both got a lot out of it. It’s nice to know there are other people that feel the same.

After our big chat, we were moving on to lighter subjects and two Sri Lankan women leaned over the fence to talk to us. They asked me to come around and take their picture. I tried to go around but I realised that I would need to walk all the way through the main building and around. So, I returned to the fence to tell them I couldn’t and saw them waiting with a man. I suddenly realised that they didn’t want me to take their picture, but that they wanted me to take a picture with them. It felt strange that they would want to take a picture with me.

The rest of the night was fairly uneventful. The drumming continued well after sunset and eventually ended when it was very dark. We ate dinner and played two games of pool on their pool table. We retired to our rooms and attempted to sleep knowing we had an early start the next morning.

Friday, February 04, 2005

same day, a little more frustration 

I am feeling a bit frustrated at the moment. I want to go out to the region to see everything that is going on. I feel so isolated spinning my wheels in Colombo.

It is the capital. It is rich and it was protected because it was on the west side of the island. It is frustrating. I have no idea the extent of the damage, the size of the partners that we are working with, their needs, their ideas... I know as much as I did watching tv and reading the paper.

We are so close, 2 hours from all that is going on and I still in the dark - off typing away on proposals. I might as well be in UK, I feel.

independence day in sri lanka 

Last night I had a dream with most of my co-workers from the UK in it. It was strange, but not unsettling. Don't know what it means. Guess I have been thinking about work too much. I have been working 14-15 hour days and I cannot sleep at night. Since we are six hours ahead here, I am going to bed at 6:30 GMT every night. I usually toss and turn for a couple of hours while getting bitten by mosquitos.

While all of this sounds very bad, it is not. There are some good bits. The weather is warm, my co-worker is nice and I am enjoying being out of the UK office. We work long hours because there is work to do and the time difference means at the end of the day, there are still emails coming in. I don't mind really.

Today is Sri Lankan Independence Day. Therefore, most shops, businesses, schools and bars are closed. My co-worker, his girlfriend and I are going to work 6 hours today in exchange for Monday. Monday morning is the Super Bowl. We are planning on getting up early to watch it then perhaps nap in the afternoon. I am making guacamole. I make an excellent guacamole.

Tonight, I am going to have drinks with people, at their house, that I haven't met. They work for another NGO and have invited me around because they know people that I work with. It should be nice.

Thursday, February 03, 2005

a disappointing day 

Today has been a little disappointing. My big goal of the day was to establish meetings with the remaining donors on the list.

I established some meetings with donors, but some are away today or will be away soon. It is Independence Day in Sri Lanka tomorrow. Many of the Embassies and Consulates get the day off for in-country holidays as well as their home country holidays. Which I believe is one of the reasons people complain of the rate at which visas and other paperwork are processed.

My co-worker understandably so, told me that he wanted to be alone with his girlfriend when she returns tomorrow. So, I need to find somewhere to skeddatle to. Well, I don't have to leave. He told me that he wants to take her out to dinner, but I don't want to sit home like a sad monkey. Instead, I will take myself out to dinner and a drink like a sadder monkey. Now, before you get worried that I am wandering into the night by myself, know that Colombo is very safe. I can take a three wheeled rickshaw (tuk-tuk) to a very expensive and posh restaraunt around the corner, have dinner and a a drink and head back in another rickshaw. Not a problem.

I also spoke to my co-worker about going out into the regions to conduct interviews and meet with partners. It appears that the travels will not happen while I am here. I have two weekends while I am here. I may just travel to the region on my own to get an idea of what the climate is like and the devastation. I feel so removed in Colombo.

Today's weather is lovely. Sunny and balmy. Very nice. The kind you want to sit in a chair with a nice tall glass of ice cold water and read a book. Darn work. Always getting in the way of my potentially gorgeous tan.


Wednesday, February 02, 2005

groundhog day in colombo 

Things are good here. I am busy, but not overwhelmingly busy. That will come next week when the Director of Programmes arrives. Then we be in constant meetings and trying to see everyone and create proposals.

The head of the programme country's girlfriend returns on Friday. He talked to me about the possibility of the three of us going somewhere for the weekend. He mentioned the beach. We know that they need tourism and they have asked people to return to the beaches, but it is hard know that so many thousands of people died there only over a month ago. It makes me not feel much like having a holiday.

The weather is hot, but nice. It is hard to imagine there is snow in the eastern US and grey and rainy skies in England. It feels so far away, like seasons away not just distance.

The person that I am working with asked whether I would ever work in the field. Sometimes, I think 'Yes! Absolutely!" but I realise that things are different now. I am married and the decision is now made by two people. It feels odd because for the majority of my life I made decisions based on what I solely wanted.
Actually whether I would like to work in the field is a big question and comes up all the time. Before moving to the UK, in some ways it was easier to imagine living abroad. I hadn't experienced living outside my culture and having the feeling of starting over again, making friends and creating a normal life. In some ways it is harder now because I know I would have those things ahead of me. On the other hand, I also think that in some way it might be easier since I have already done it once, why can't I do it again? UGH! Nevermind involving another person in decision-making. I cannot handle it withj just one of me.

Those are my musings for today.

Tuesday, February 01, 2005

colombo, sri lanka 

Things are good here in Colombo. Less busy then they were last time. I travelled by myself this time. My co-workers come next week. For now, I am doing the prep works that needs to be done. Contacting donors to discuss our work and setting up meeting times and places.

The guy I am staying with is nice, but American. I know it sounds a bit weird, but I haven't interacted with an American man in so long. It seems strange. They are completely different to the English that I work with. I find myself telling him more than I should - like office gossip or what I really think of my boss - and then instantly regret it. I think the way he talks reminds me of someone who is a friend. I need to be quiet.

Colombo is good. It is as I remember it. I haven't been out in the regions yet. I think on Friday we will travel to Jaffne. I am looking forward to it. Meeting with the partners and seeing the context will help me with my work.

There was an awkward conversation with a cab driver. He talked about the tsunami and the devastation. I really didn't know what to say. You cannot make light of these things, but since I havn't seen it, I have no comprehension of what things are like. I tended to just listen and agree but I couldn't fully contribute.

I will try to write again tomorrow.

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